As a belated wedding gift, my childhood friend Nick came to visit us this past weekend and took us out to dinner at, holy shit, Alinea. I will never eat a meal as delicious, or as expensive, as that one again. But perfect gift giving sometimes requires giving someone something they can’t or won’t buy for themselves. So when Nick said he wanted to take us out to a “crazy awesome dinner”, and I suggested Chalkboard or the Publican, he ignored me and bought tickets for Alinea’s 14-course tasting menu.

The evening is more of an eating amusement park than it is a simple meal in a restaurant. Every detail is catered to, from the moment you walk in the door. The front entry is an immersive art installation (for the summer season, a carpet of real grass, growing indoors, and a sort of maze that leads one from the street to the lobby entrance in dim neon pink light). The host somehow magically knew who we were and whisked us to a table. There was a centerpiece of pickled vegetables sitting in a box of grass and lit from beneath by a bright halogen light (giving off a green glow through the vegetables), which turned into the 3rd course when they opened the jar and served us heirloom tomatoes from within. I joked that, over the course of the 4 hour meal, they knew when I wanted to visit the restroom almost before I did. Someone would materialize to escort me to the ladies room, then pull out my chair when I returned, clean napkin folded and waiting for me. The servers weren’t just stiff, formal, and impeccably trained, but actually adapted their style to ours. We were a table of casual people who were there to have a good time, and they chatted with us and made us comfortable. The table next to us was on a very formal date and their server was polite, efficient, nearly invisible.

So, the food. The food! A ravioli filled with rich truffle liquid that literally explodes in your mouth. A cold potato and mushroom soup with a tiny hot roasted potato dropped into it moments before eating. Fried squash blossom with cardamom and saffron. Heirloom tomatoes with Spanish goat’s brie, melon sorbet and cucumber-foam. Ceviche served on a bed of seaweed that spilled out lemongrass-scented dry ice. Duck prepared four different ways. Squares of pork belly and daikon that some described as “life-changing”. A deep-fried shrimp head to be eaten in its entirety, with six inch long antennae standing up like the wild bits of a floral arrangement. Things on fire! Five tiny cubes of ginger served on skewers like acupuncture needles, to transition from the savory to the sweet courses. A helium balloon made of apple fruit leather, so that after inhaling the helium, one actually ate the entire ballon, string and all. For a final course, a chef comes to the table, rolls out a rubber mat, and “paints” dessert directly onto the table, a sort of free-form chocolate tart surrounded by a splatter paint of violet and raspberry syrups. Wines selected to pair with each course or couple of courses. French press coffee to finish. A cab waiting for us after a quick post-dinner tour of the kitchen.

But there is a part of me that is ashamed of eating such fine things when other people have so little to eat. I mean, we could have donated the cost of that meal and then enjoyed an evening of pizza and beer together, right? But this was a gift, and not any less enjoyed or appreciated for my nagging guilt about the expense. Nick bought the tickets, and treating us to dinner is what he wanted to do. The best I can do with this Catholic Guilt* is to always be grateful for the opportunities that come my way. Enjoy them, try to pay them forward.